Seven Cult Designers To Know This Autumn
MR PORTER has been on a bit of a shopping spree. Want to see what’s in our bag right now?
About this time last month, we gave you a rundown of the best new pieces from fashion’s household names: SAINT LAURENT, Off-White and Acne Studios all made appearances. This month, we’re shining the spotlight onto seven lesser known, but no less desirable, labels – all of them new to MR PORTER. Among them are industry newcomers, such as Reese Cooper® and Bode, alongside more established brands such as Comme Des Garçons HOMME. There’s cutting-edge streetwear from Martine Rose, outdoor-focused casualwear from nanamica and a new take on eco-friendly fashion from Satta. We’re also turning our eye to the latest collection from Billionaire Boys Club (EU), the much-loved brand from Mr Pharrell Williams. Just like the man himself, it looks as fresh now as it did 15 years ago. Read on for more on each brand.
BILLIONAIRE BOYS CLUB
Streetwear meets hip-hop culture head-on at Billionaire Boys Club EU (BBC), a clothing brand founded in 2003 by Mr Pharrell Williams in collaboration with the streetwear guru Nigo and the graphic designer Sk8thing. Originally comprising a range of premium logo T-shirts and sweatshirts, which featured prominently in the music video to Mr Williams’ debut solo single, “Frontin’”, BBC has since developed into one of the most desirable names in streetwear, its highly anticipated drops prompting queues around the block whenever they land in store. It’s not all about the sought-after logo tees, though. Outerwear features heavily in the brand’s debut season on MR PORTER, with technical gilets and cargo shorts making an appearance alongside zip-up fleece jackets and checked flannel overshirts. It’s hypebeasts go camping – and we’re along for the ride.
Comme Des Garçons HOMME
There are few forces in fashion as influential as Ms Rei Kawakubo, the woman who founded Comme Des Garçons in 1969 and continues to oversee the brand, its multi-brand retail store, Dover Street Market, and its 20-odd diffusion lines half a century later. Indeed, it goes some way to describing her peerless standing in the industry that one of her protégés, Mr Junya Watanabe, is himself considered something of a living legend. Joining Comme Des Garçons in the late 1980s, he went on to launch his own women’s line in 1993, following up with the popular Junya Watanabe Comme Des Garçons MAN in 2005. Those lines, of course, are what he’s best known for, but he has also been overseeing CDG diffusion line Comme Des Garçons HOMME since 2001. Got all that? Mr Watanabe’s signature patchworking style remains a trademark of the Comme Des Garçons HOMME brand to this day, as displayed by this wonderful Frankenstein’s monster of a rugby shirt from the AW19 collection.
Ms Martine Rose, whose tongue-in-cheek description of herself as “probably the best designer in the world” welcomes visitors onto her eponymous brand’s website, has been a fixture of London’s menswear scene since 2007, her influence growing steadily over the past decade as streetwear has risen to become the dominant force in the fashion industry. In 2018, a collaboration with Nike and a gig working with Mr Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga woke the wider world up to what Londoners have known for some time: that Ms Rose’s ironic analysis might be closer to the truth than it initially seems. This season, expect retro baroque-printed shirts, highlighter-neon sweats and plenty of the brand’s trademark voluminous trousers.
If you’re a fan of And Wander, Arc’teryx Veilance or any of the other brands successfully straddling the worlds of technical outerwear and street fashion, there’s every chance that you’ll love nanamica. Founded in 2003 by Mr Eiichiro Homma, an alumnus of the long-established outerwear company Goldwin, nanamica incorporates functional details from outdoor gear into a range of smart, city-appropriate clothing that addresses the issues of everyday urban life without compromising on style. At MR PORTER, we’ve been fully signed-up members of nanamica’s cult following for some time now. We’re delighted to finally be able to welcome you into the fold. Highlights? The brand’s range of waterproofs are not to be missed, the waxed-shell field jacket seen here being one of the stand-out stars of the most recent collection.
The precociously talented American designer Mr Reese Cooper released his first collection of menswear in 2016 when he was just 18 years old and living with his family in west London. Now 21, he’s a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist in charge of his own fully fledged brand, which is based in the Giannetti Factory in Los Angeles and specialises in a contemporary heritage American workwear. Entitled “Hitchhiking”, his most recent collection has a neo-grunge feel to it, with outdoorsy plaid and fleece, heavily distressed denim and vintage-inspired graphic tees evoking a sense of youthful adventure and wanderlust. A name for the future? On the contrary. We’d suggest that the age of Reese Cooper® is already here.
Satta is more than just a clothing brand. It’s a lifestyle brand or, to be more precise, a livity brand. “Livity” is a Rastafari term that generally translates as “lifestyle”, but more specifically refers to a way of life inspired by nature and guided by a belief in an energy that flows between all living things. It’s the guiding philosophy of the brand’s founder, the ex-landscape gardener and carpenter Mr Joe Lauder, which lends itself to a range of beautifully simple, built-to-last clothes in an earthy palette of taupe, olive and grey. Yes, it’s true that Satta satisfies several of the clichés of an eco-conscious clothing company – it uses plenty of hemp, its online store offers a ceramic bong – but its passionate devotion to sustainability is something we can all appreciate. Especially when the clothes look this good.
Bode Multi-Patchwork Button-Up Workwear Jacket Coming soon
Bode Calorie Summer Print SS Camp-Collar Shirt Coming soon
Bode Hand And Embroidered Bode Heart T-Shirt Coming soon
Bode All-Over Print Senior Washed Cords Loose Fit Pants Coming soon
Founded in 2016 by Ms Emily Adams Bode, a graduate of the prestigious Parsons School of Design, Bode has caused quite a stir in the menswear world with its charming range of folksy, workwear-inspired shirts and jackets, fashioned from deadstock fabrics, patchwork quilts, old tablecloths from the 1950s and whatever other vintage textiles happen to catch the designer’s eye on her regular pilgrimages to New York’s 26th Street flea market. What began as a small-scale couture operation has ramped up since the brand was announced as the runner-up for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund at the 2018 CFDA Awards, but it remains the absolute antithesis to mass-market fast fashion, its garments still made entirely by hand in New York City – and available in strictly limited quantities as a result. Snag one while you can.