Restaurant, Soho, London

Kiln - Men's Style Council Place

The latest venture from chef Mr Ben Chapman – cofounder of nearby culinary hotspot Smoking Goat – has at its heart, rather than conventional restaurant ovens, a series of wood-burning, brick-and-render kilns. These were shipped in from Thailand’s Burmese border and constructed by Mr Chapman himself. Dishes are cooked in clay pots and woks over the glowing embers of the barbecue (there’s no gas supply here). The meticulously researched cuisine menu – brought in from the same region as the kilns – changes by the day, but order the Burmese wild ginger and short-rib curry if you can. The menu changes by the day, but order the Burmese wild ginger and short-rib curry, if it’s on.

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Kiln cooks up regional Thai food with a little Yunnan and Burmese influence. If you choose the upstairs counter, which I recommend, you can see all the chefs preparing the dishes in a collection of clay pots. Dishes are small and best to share. Kiln prides themselves on the origin of their vegetables, herbs and meat from Phillip Warrens Farmers, which is reassuring. The aged lamb and cumin skewers are delicious, as is the Burmese wild ginger and short rib curry. Order loads of small dishes and don’t pass on the clay pot baked crab and glass noodles with Tamworth belly. It’s madly busy (the counter is walk-in only), so you need to leave your number and they will call you back in.

mr Nick Vinson