THE JOURNAL

With the non-starter that was 2020 in the rear-view mirror, with any luck, 2021 will be a year of discovery – one of reigniting scuppered plans and missed opportunities. So why not extend that sense of adventure to your wardrobe, too? Whether you’re a less-is-more minimalist, a fitness fanatic or an artisanal eco-crusader, our array of under-the-radar designers will give your wardrobe a cathartic refresh. It’s time to get out of your brand rut and try something new.
01.
For the sports fan

There’s help at hand to get you back in the sporting game this year from a host of fresh labels, including Gallic running brand, Satisfy. While its blend of technical materials and punk-inspired nuances might sound a touch style over substance, it’s far from the case. Fabrics are developed specially by the brand in Italy, France, Germany, Switzerland and Japan and for assured quality, all production takes place in Europe. It’s sure to appeal if you’re the chap who’s always first off the block to bag the latest limited-edition Nikes on drop day.
If you’re religiously clad in Under Armour for everything – whether that’s for your morning burpees in the park or just nipping out for a pint of milk – consider mixing things up with some pieces from Gramicci. The label cleverly combines out-of-doors functionality with a casual polish, making its cosy fleeces and hardy Cordura trousers equally suited to an energetic hike, or an amble into town.
And, if you’re bound for fresh powder this spring – travel restrictions permitting – then Swedish skiwear brand, Houdini, should be on your hit list. Its intelligently engineered garments are capable of tackling any inclement spells you encounter on the mountainside and as they’re made from recycled or renewable materials; they’re sustainable, too. So, you can gun it down the piste looking every bit the part, knowing you’ve helped preserve that alpine landscape.
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02.
For the casual urbanite

If combining streetwear with purposeful pieces sporting hidden, practical elements (perhaps a tongue-in-cheek graphic T-shirt and C.P. Company reversible bomber) sounds like your bag, you might want to consider The Workers Club. The British brand’s signature outerwear designs – such as its packable parka and shell jacket – feature intelligent design details, including reflective drawstrings and concealed internal zips to add and remove gilets in accordance with the climate.
London-born Mr Craig Green has been crowned British Menswear Designer of the Year on three occasions for his futuristic utilitarian-wear that scores highly for design ingenuity and wearability. His trademark quilted jackets are skilfully crafted investment pieces that any design-savvy streetwear aficionado would appreciate.
Equally worth your attention is Japanese label Aloye. It’s headed by a team of graphic designers, which is evident in its geometric, block-colour tees and sweatshirts that are as comfortable as they are visually appealing. Made in Japan with precision, these simple, well-executed pieces will make a fitting partner to your faithful Levi’s.
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03.
For the retro revivalist

You might take the line that wide-leg trousers are just more comfortable, but judging from your louche Gucci shirts and wide-lapel TOM FORD blazers, deep down, you feel your glory days should have been the mid-1970s. If that’s the case, then set your sights on Séfr. The Swedish brand has a penchant for revisiting retro design, as evidenced by its oversized-collar shirts, capacious trousers and velvety wide-lapel jackets.
Californian label Equipment has a rich archive from the 1970s and is a master of silk shirting, which, incidentally, rose to its zenith during that very decade thanks to the likes of rock legends Sir Mick Jagger and Mr David Bowie. Its fluid, utilitarian silk shirts in vintage pastel hues and jazzy leopard print will sit well alongside your equally jazzy Gucci numbers.
If psychedelic-inspired Missoni shirts and sweaters are your thing, then Japanese label Needles is certainly worth perusing. Its eye-catching intarsia knits and tie-dye separates take their cues from the peppy palette and patterns of the 1960s. A must for any modern retrospective rake.
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04.
For the artisanal hipster

If you actively seek pieces with artisanal character and perhaps an eco-conscious spin (Patagonia, Veja and Outerknown?), then Ms Emily Bode’s eponymous label should be up your alley. Her New York-based house takes the concept of a “one-off” to another level, with small-batch pieces cut from upcycled vintage fabrics and finished with the sort of artisanal techniques that you thought had vanished. BODE’s hand-embroidered silk shirts and embellished jackets are ideal for the man who sees himself as a worldly nomad.
Also on the same wavelength is Story Mfg. – a label committed to sustainable production methods and homespun individuality. Its organic denim, embroidered jackets and crochet-knit accessories are what you might best describe as sartorial treasures.
New kid to the block, SMR Days, is inspired by the globetrotting exploits of the brand’s founders and accordingly, has an international outlook. Cross-stitched kimono jackets and relaxed, jacquard-detailed shorts and tunic shirts paint a picture of a cultured traveller who has acquired his apparel off the beaten path.
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05.
For the contemporary minimalist

Perhaps you’re the type who fastidiously maintains an appearance as clean cut as a freshly folded origami crane. If so, you’re in luck, as this season, minimalism is riding higher than ever. It’s a concept that bears weight on the work of Auralee founder Mr Ryota Iwai, who says his brand “promotes a clarity of design, where calm elegance aligns with gentle formality”. Poetic statements aside, the end result is pieces cut from the finest fabrics sourced from Japan and further afield that exude character and comfort. This collection’s cloud-soft alpaca jacket and fine wool-flannel shirts are particular highlights.
Mr Aldo Maria Camillo’s namesake label is inspired by the heyday of 1990s minimalism, which can be seen in its pared-back tailoring cut from skilfully milled fabrics. It’s just right for a long-time disciple of Mses Jil Sander and Margaret Howell.
Parisian label Lemaire, helmed by Mr Christophe Lemaire and Ms Sarah-Linh Tran, focuses on elevated wardrobe staples that impart a sense of quiet sophistication. Subtle details that attract the eye are key, such as oversized point collars, texture-rich fabrics and capacious cuts. This is a label for the man who appreciates the crisp simplicity of a well-cut white shirt, while leaving the rest of the world to fuss and frills.