THE JOURNAL
Photograph by Mr Szymon Brzóska/The Style Stalker
There are times when it’s a good idea to play it safe – weddings, funerals, job interviews – but at all other times, really, we can wear what we want, so why don’t we? It’s a thought that I have circled back to again and again during the past year, during which, for lack of anywhere else to go, I have journeyed deep into the chaotic inner jungles of my own psyche, to see what fun is there to be had.
If I’ve learnt anything in lockdown, it’s that fashion, divorced from function, can be a source of creativity, entertainment and self-expression. When you take a risk and reach for the thing that you haven’t tried, or shouldn’t work, you discover things about yourself and truly grow as a person. (Yes, I need to get out more. Actually, we all do.)
As someone whose wardrobe is composed of such unusual items, thanks to an irrepressibly gaudy streak and many impulsive choices, there is a lot of colour, pattern and – gulp – brocade in my life right now. It qualifies this former fashion editor (of this here publication) to advise you on just how easy and fun it can be to push your style envelope. Whether you’re stuck in a rut, or just need a nudge, there are a number of ways to broaden your sartorial horizons.
01.
Work a pattern
A confluence of retro nostalgia and wry streetwear humour has meant that menswear has become overrun with loud, flashy and sometimes downright weird prints in recent years. Which means that, if you’re tempted to go in this direction, you are spoilt for choice. The general rule here is to pick one patterned piece and team it with garments in plain, flat colours. It’s possible to mix and clash patterns, too, but just bear in mind that two patterned garments will look better together if there is a marked contrast between the scale of the patterns. If you want something bold, but don’t know what to choose, consider a camouflage or leopard print. Both might look a bit much on your laptop screen, but when you get them home, you’ll find they not only work together (really!) but harmonise with a wide range of tones – black, brown, green, yellow, beige – that are likely already in your wardrobe.
02.
Expand your palette
If you’re the sort of person who relies heavily on black, grey and navy, consider adding some colour to the mix. The key here is not just picking out, say, a bright pink shirt, or a pair of scarlet socks – these items might be fun, but they’re fairly inflexible. Rather, invest in garments that cover a whole tonal range. If you have a navy blazer that you wear all the time, pick up shirts or sweaters in lighter shades of blue and jeans in different washes, so you’ll have a selection of complementary, but varied blue-ish pieces that you can mix and match. You could do the same, of course, with a contrasting tonal range. Brown to yellow is a good one to start with, because it will work as well with your beige chinos as your leopard-print shirt.
03.
Try out a texture
The weight and feel of fabric is one of the more important aspects of menswear, in that it provides interest and variety that is felt more than seen. Of course, texture can be seen, too. What about fleece? What about suede? Or mohair? One of the best (and most subtle) ways to play with texture is in outfits that are tonally quite reserved. Wearing a chunky knitted blazer with a fine merino sweater and sheeny poplin shirt will create an interesting effect even if they’re all more or less the same colour. You could also go a bolder route and seek out a coat, jacket or sweater in which texture is the main talking point – a ribbed or cable-knit cardigan, for example – or a thick corduroy jacket. The thicker the texture, here, the more you’ll want to play other textures down. In fashion, as in life, it’s best not to lay it on too thick.
04.
Go big or go home
There’s this brand called Balenciaga. Maybe you’ve heard of it? Whether or not you’re a devotee of Mr Demna Gvasalia’s work at the Parisian couture house, you’ll have to admit it’s had a concerted influence on the menswear market. What was once slim and skinny is now baggy and capacious. Even Mr Hedi Slimane, the ultimate advocate of skin-tight, is doing elegantly drooping hoodies in his latest collection for CELINE HOMME. So why not pump up your own volume? The easiest first stop here is to consider your top half, and choose something sporty, such as an oversized track top or popover. These pieces can be easily worn with slim jeans and sneakers for a look that’s pleasingly redolent of the 1990s, rather than screaming, “Look at me, I get fashion!”
05.
Prepare for action
Naturally, among the most intrepid choices for the male wardrobe, whatever the season, are those inspired by active duty. The field jacket, the bomber and the parka are all excellent choices if you want to get a little more rough and ready with your outerwear, but you can take a subtle approach. Consider, for example, a technical shell blazer, which will bring a hard, utilitarian edge to your smart-casual ensembles. Or a nylon tote bag from Japan’s Porter-Yoshida & Co, which will do much the same thing, but also hold your laptop.