THE JOURNAL

Mr Oliver Spencer is kind of a relaxed perfectionist, if such a thing exists. His clothes are reliable, easy-to-wear wardrobe staples that work in casual and formal settings, but they’re also undeniably stylish and well-crafted. “I like the whole dress-up-to-dress-down thing, nothing too stuffy,” he says as he walks us through his eco-conscious capsule collection that launches on MR PORTER this week.
The clothes in the capsule, in varying colours of white, indigo and ecru, do not scream for attention, but this is exactly the point. You notice the little things: the subtle herringbone on the summer blazer, for instance, or the cream placket hidden beneath the buttons of the blue striped jacket. “I am, if nothing else, all about details.”
This is nothing new: Oliver Spencer and good details go hand in hand. What’s interesting about this new collection is that the brand is now focusing more on sustainability. After talking with friends about how he could improve his brand (and spending some time watching Sir David Attenborough’s Blue Planet), Mr Spencer resolved to take a more ecological approach to design: “We’re moving down a more sustainable pathway now,” he says. “It’s what the brand has actually been doing for a number of years, but now we’ve started talking about it and pushing it further.”
The first thing he has addressed is the packaging. “[Previously,] a customer would try on a shirt, remove all the packaging, and throwing away all the card and plastic that used to be in there. So, we’ve taken out all the shirting innards.”
The brand’s sustainable approach also applies to the fabrics used. Fortunately, good fabric is something Oliver Spencer keeps as a focal point, and this capsule contains a number of organic pieces. “Buying organic cotton is really important right now. Cotton can be made very badly using a lot of water, but if it’s organic, the water goes into the weaving reeds, through the machines, gets purified and then goes back through the machines, meaning it’s constantly recycled rather than wasted.”
That doesn’t mean the brand has compromised on how good the clothes look. The suit jackets have what Mr Spencer calls a “Mediterranean feel” and are modern without being messy. “If a suit is going to keep up in modern times, this is the way it’s got to be; lightweight in the summer, and completely unstructured. It’s almost close to a shirt because of how light it is,” he says.
See also the brand’s organic cotton grandad-collar shirt: “This is one of my favourites,” says Mr Spencer. “It’s based on a classic dress shirt; it’s smart but also totally relaxed, and it’s got a pocket on top to break it up a bit. It’s a really easy thing to dress up or dress down.” A rare selling point nowadays: no-nonsense clothes that can be worn in a variety of ways, exactly as you want to wear them.