THE JOURNAL
When MR PORTER was first conceived, our house style (the language and tone of voice that we use) suggested avoiding the word “layering” within our output. The idea was that, in the year 2011, men might not have been so receptive to this concept, or at least the labelling of it as such. Of course, everyone wears more than one item of clothing if the situation suits. We might even wear multiple layers if it is cold enough. But to consider it as its own genre of style, a living, breathing, verbing “ing”, as if it were a premeditated pursuit in and of itself rather than simply a practical way to keep warm, might have been unpalatable, such was the fragile, conflicted state of masculinity a decade ago.
Today, masculinity remains in crisis, but the reasons are far more nuanced and fragmented than words that connote gender identity. Plenty more has changed in the past 10 years, too, not least the personnel at MR PORTER. So, layer up we do, us brave, open-minded souls, and we shout about it from the rooftops, telling anyone and everyone who will listen.
Such is the level of our newfound pride about layering in the brave new world of 2021, we have worked with our old friends at Brunello Cucinelli on an exclusive capsule collection that celebrates the very idea. Quite savvy, that, isn’t it – extolling the idea that, yes, we must wear more clothes to be warmer, but also to be somehow more stylish. Sometimes, more is more. Especially in winter. Good for Brunello Cucinelli. But also good for you, our enlightened readers.
How so? Well, let us count the ways. Or the layers, we should say.
First, a general point about sustainability. Brunello Cucinelli supports the idea of humanistic capitalism, a thoughtful way of going about the business of clothes making that aims to give back rather than create profit at any cost. You can read more about it here. What’s more, there’s an argument that layering itself is good for the environment. Or, at least, preferable to the alternatives – indoor and outdoor heaters, for example. Boiled down to its purest form it is a way of using multiple items of clothing in various ways to produce different results. So, see it as your route to getting more outfit combinations – and wear – from the clothes in your wardrobe.
Now you’ve done your bit for the greater good, we can get to the business of looking more stylish.
The first lesson this capsule teaches us is that layering can allow you to wear smart items of clothing without looking stuffy. A grey blazer, much like the one pictured here, on its own might speak of an interview or a day at the office. Under a sheepskin jacket? Well, who knows what you’re up to, but you’re going to look far more interesting – perhaps even inscrutable – while you do it. We think this combination speaks of maturity, versatility and sophistication. This is a man who has life experience; he is in control of his opinions and tastes, but also know he needs options available to him.
Lesson two: layering can break up your outfit, making it more fun and visually interesting. The white trousers and cream jacket in this picture? A great fit, coordinated without veering too far into matchy-matchy territory. Throw in a white T-shirt or sweater and you risk being mistaken for a worker at an arctic research centre. But, with a considered grey rollneck in the mix, you’re going to look contemporary, cool, but also sophisticated and dependable. What a guy.
Another takeaway from our study on layering: lots of colour (can be) king. If you master the art of balance, you can wear multiple shades all at once without looking like a children’s TV presenter. See the powder blue, navy, camel and white palette that this outfit shows off here. The trick is not to contrast too heavily – the camel and the white complement each other, as do the two blue hues.
The final lesson that Brunello Cucinelli and MR PORTER’s layering class can teach us is somewhat less didactic: you can be whoever you want to be (and lots of different people all that the same time). Take, for example, this chunky shawl wool cardigan. On its own, it speaks of pub fires and rosy cheeks. But with a sporty, outdoorsy gilet over the top? You’ve got yourself an edge right there. A contemporary savviness that suggests you might have more on your plate for the day than dissolving into an armchair.
The same goes for the look comprised of the long smart coat and wool trousers. Add a shell gilet and a cotton hoodie into proceedings and you come across as a man who is a whole lot less serious about life. And it’s nice to think that you’re dressed for pretty much any eventuality when you leave the house in the morning.
Layering, then: done well, and helped by a brand who work with the right colours, fabrics and craftsmanship, it’s the making of a sophisticated man.