Five Things The Menswear Shows Have Taught Us This Season

Link Copied

4 MINUTE READ

Five Things The Menswear Shows Have Taught Us This Season

Words by Ms Danai Dana

15 October 2020

Undoubtedly, 2020 has been quite the year. Dominated by the global pandemic and major social and political conflicts, this one is guaranteed to go down in the history books for all the wrong reasons. But amid the chaos, life goes on, and so does style. Despite the considerable limitations that coronavirus has placed on day-to-day operations, designers have kept the fashion machine whirring with their collections for SS21. After all, we all still need something to wear, even if it’s just to the kitchen.

The format of fashion shows and presentations has had to be radically adapted in light of social distancing measures, and labels have risen to the challenge. From Zoom-ready fashion to new standards in body positivity and a fresh direction for tailoring, here are some of the most notable moments from the season.

01. Tailoring is transforming

Mr Matthew Williams’ debut for Givenchy was one of the most anticipated collections for SS21, and it did not disappoint. The designer behind 1017 ALYX 9SM and former Mr Kanye West collaborator made a case for unconventional tailoring at Givenchy, with a clean take on comfortable suiting that hit a particular sartorial sweet spot; slouchy enough to wear at home, but snappy enough to take to the red carpet. Despite a pair of three-toed sandals that were ridiculed online for their resemblance to Scooby Doo’s paws, Givenchy’s new direction looks to be a promising one.

Get the look

02. Fashion is for everyone

Though it has taken some work, the fashion industry has arguably seen some progress this year in terms of diversity and inclusivity. Brands have been put under the microscope and it looks as if real, positive changes are being made to diversify the industry and champion body positivity. Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty is a great example: launching its menswear collection this year, the brand presented a diverse cast of models, including plus-sized men in the lineup. This was something of a first and won the brand a lot of praise.

Inclusivity shone elsewhere, too. TAKAHIROMIYASHITA The Soloist. showed a beautifully crafted collection of oversized, unisex styles that were wholly unbothered by size or gender. Meanwhile, LOEWE took a subversive approach with male models sporting almost Georgian-style skirts with sneakers, accessorised with a skateboard. It would be premature of us to say that we will be stocking billowing skirts as part of our menswear offering on MR PORTER any time soon, but designer Mr Jonathan Anderson’s creative collection certainly had us talking.

Get the look

03. Go oversized or go home

With a post-pandemic spirit in mind, Balenciaga did what it does best: oversized clothing. The techno-rave meets Mad Max collection showcased floor-length coats with humongous shoulders that dwarfed the models but also looked authoritative and, to be frank, actually quite cool. Want to look good this winter? Throw on a giant coat. Oh, and some sunglasses – the hero pieces from Balenciaga’s show were the neo-futuristic-meets-old-school rave shades. Made to wear at night, of course.

Get the look

04. Intimacy is not dead

Martine Rose based its collection around our “new normal” sex lives, incorporating models and webcam-boys Zooming with their laptops in beds and bathtubs in the background of its SS21 presentation. “Whether we’re having sex, consuming sex, or just on Zoom calls 12 hours a day, we’re all having very intimate experiences with interiors,” the designer told Vogue. This social commentary worked by exploring a modern twist on masculinity, mixing sportswear with leather and denim, morphing sports bags into small crossbody bags and accessorising baggy trousers with… lingerie-style tops. If the British Fashion Council ever starts an OnlyFans account to bring in some extra funding, well, they know who to call.

Get the look

05. Masks aren’t just for Covid

Designers this season fully embraced everyone’s current accessory du jour: the mask. Oh, you thought face coverings were just for pandemics? Think again. TAKAHIROMIYASHITA The Soloist. and Balenciaga showed post-apocalyptic-style masks, while Maison Margiela presented ensembles with red mesh full-face coverings (inspired not by PPE, however, but by tango, and South American wedding veils). We’ll wager they’re not Covid-proof, but they’re definitely worth our attention. In any case, the takeaway was that masks are here to stay.

Get the look

The men featured in this story are not associated with and do not endorse MR PORTER or the products shown