THE JOURNAL

New York City, November 2015. Photograph by Mr George Elder
This is a subject to which you might give fleeting thought, and then one Google search sends you spiralling down a rabbit hole of denim connoisseurship. Because, from collectors of cult Kyoto labels to scourers of vintage Los Angeles emporiums, the world of denim curation – and denim care – is as in-depth and wildly debated as anything you’ll see in a science documentary. There are academic journals on the vagaries of early Etruscan coinage with fewer chapters and degree of analysis. Denim is a form of casualwear religion to some, and those followers are devout.
So, I intend to tread carefully when answering this week’s query on black denim. Garnering a definite answer to your straightforward question isn’t as clear cut as you might think.
One man’s fading is another’s love-worn patina. Certain schools of thought say that you should never wash your denim; the CEO of Levi’s famously once declared that he had never washed his. But amid the contrasting opinions online and different threads (both ideology- and cotton-wise), some common ground is found with regards to the care for dark denim. First, let’s look at ways to prevent fading.
Received wisdom says that – despite a common preconception that you should delay washing for as long as possible – before you wear your new denim, you should wash it to “set” the dye. And here’s the secret ingredient: add white vinegar to the detergent. Wash on as low a temperature as you can; cold is preferable and handwash setting is best. Do not tumble dry, but allow to dry naturally in direct sunlight – laying them flat will help keep the shape intact. Wash them maximum every four to six months, unless you happen to spill a heap of castor oil on them.
From there, I’m afraid we get into rather more convoluted territory; do with said advice what you will. I am merely a conduit. You can, if you’re particularly nervous about the robustness of a machine wash, soak them in white vinegar and cold water in your bathtub. This will set the denim and “clean” your jeans, and the smell will apparently dissipate as you wear them. The other, slightly easier recommendation, is that you steam them while you shower. They’ll soak up moisture without the abrasiveness of a machine wash.
In terms of storage, folding tends to increase the wrinkle effect; ditto turn-ups on the hem. But for most of us, hanging our jeans in pristine lines like something out of a Mr Tom Ford film isn’t feasible, so if folding is the only option, turn them inside out to stop friction between the surface layers.
And, should these preventative measures fail, as with most things in life there’s a Reddit thread devoted to your quandary on black denim. Some posters even suggest redying your jeans to enrich the shade. What this could do to the hardware of your denim isn’t clear, but if you’re tempted, then be sure to use a sealant to lock in the dye – any white sofas in your vicinity will thank you.
Finally, it’s worth considering whether, at a certain point in their life, your black jeans should be allowed to fade gracefully. There’s something wonderfully Mr Serge Gainsbourg and Mr Bob Dylan-esque about not giving a fig about your faded, jaded jeans – particularly when paired with contrasting pin sharp blazers and an equally lived-in shirt, as those fellows were known to do. As with laughter lines around the eyes, there’s character in a well-worn appearance.