THE JOURNAL

View from the Castel dell'Ovo of the Borgo Marinari port. Hotels from left: Grand Hotel Vesuvio, Grand Hotel Saint Lucia, Hotel Excelsior. Photograph by Mr Ferdinando Piezzi/Alamy
This week in our series asking The Style Council to take us around their favourite city for a few days, we’re in Naples with international stylist and veritable bon vivant Mr William Gilchrist. Currently splitting his time between the Italian city and London, Mr Gilchrist is renting a flat in Naples with a view to moving there permanently. Here’s what he’d recommend for a long weekend.
Where to eat
Da Dora
“For those who don’t care for the affectations or pretensions of a ‘chic’ restaurant, then Da Dora is a good spot. Like most Italian cooking it’s simple, and good. Fine, fresh produce needs to be allowed to shine. Your dinner will occasionally be accompanied with a troubadour who can proffer Pino Danielle or Roberto Murolo and even on request some Lucio Battisiti, so sit back and enjoy. The fresh fish really is, and the staff are friendly and focused.”
**Via Ferdinando Palasciano, 30, 80122 Naples **
Where to drink
Libreria Berisio
“Located in the literary area of Porta’Alba, this was once a publisher and purveyor of fine books. It remains the latter and has a great selection of antique and vintage books, including a strong collection from Naples. As evening arrives, the bookshop transforms itself into a cosy and rather splendid cocktail bar, which you can enjoy surrounded by all the books. Or step outside to experience Naples as it passes you by at a more frenetic pace.”
**Via Port’Alba, 28, 80134 Naples **
Where to stay
Grand Hotel Vesuvio
“If it’s the five-star experience you require, then you won’t suffer at this hotel, which sits on the waterfront opposite Naples’ excellent sailing clubs. I’m lucky enough to be lodged in such hotels as this when working, but if I’m on my own dime and time, I’ll opt for an Airbnb, and have only had great experiences with my choices here in Naples. A unique flat or house in such a city where I can cook, mix my own cocktails and savour the view is one of the great pleasures of travel.”
Via Partenope 45, 80121 Naples
What to do
Kayak Napoli
“Naples is famous for its beautiful mix of chaos and culture. My love for the sea was another reason I decided to come here. So to combine my enjoyment of all three while in a kayak is a morning or afternoon well spent. Kayak Napoli offers two starting points, one at Bagno Sirena and another at Baia delle Rocce Verdi. Kayaking along the shoreline will give you a unique view of history and nature all at your own pace. The chaps that run Kayak Napoli are, like many in Naples, friendly and helpful. However, I’d like to mention my own personal discovery, the Grimaldi Libreria Di Marzio Alfonso Grimaldi, which is housed in a small deconsecrated chapel. Be sure to you find your own way there on your journey of discovery in Naples.”
**Via Posillipo, 68, 80123 Naples **
What to wear
“As I write this, the clocks have gone back and I’ve watched a storm engulf Capri and slow dance across the bay of Naples. Vesuvius has worn its mantle proudly all day. The rain has been moderate and the temperature hasn’t dropped below 23 degrees. So keep your wardrobe light and simply bring a few layers. Were I writing this in June, far fewer layers would be required. Coming to Naples and not sampling some of its sartorial artisans would be the equivalent of coming here and only eating fast food. Their unique design and specific tailoring is known worldwide, and if you make a trip to Rubinacci or Isaia, you can get an insight into two of the many houses that maintain the city’s unique and effortless style. One that can only be achieved through the knowledge, experience and effort of the sarti Napolitani or Neopolitan tailors.”