THE JOURNAL
Ambar Restaurant. Photograph courtesy of Ambar
Where to stay, eat, drink and visit in the Serbian capital.
Belgrade has been dubbed the new Berlin because of its thrilling nightlife, low costs and residential neighbourhoods covered in political street art. But it’s also greener, cleaner and more laidback than many people would assume. The Serbian capital is located at the confluence of the rivers Sava and Danube, with a seemingly endless waterfront, spacious parks and photogenic terraces. Belgrade is also a fairly small city, so you can see and do a lot in a day. Here are the best bits.
STAY
The Junior Deluxe Suite at Square Nine. Photograph courtesy of Square Nine
Savamala Bed & Breakfast/Square Nine
You can stay in an elegant yet affordable bed and breakfast called Savamala in the neighbourhood of the same name. It boasts 1950s-inspired, pastel-coloured furniture and modern art hanging from brick walls. You can’t beat the location – it’s within walking distance of all the main attractions. Oh, and the staff are very friendly. Alternatively, for a bit of luxury, check in to the award-winning Square Nine, which is located in the centre of Belgrade, 50m from the Kneza Mihailova pedestrianised district. Apart from an 18m-long pool, it has not one, but two restaurants: The Square, which serves European food, and Ebisu, which serves Japanese.
SEE
Photograph by Shutterstock
The Temple of St Sava
You can’t miss the Belgrade Fortress, which overlooks the city. But the Temple of St Sava, known as Belgrade’s Sagrada Familia, is one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world and has a better story to tell. Construction began in 1935, but came to a stop during WWII. The building was used for storage, first by the Wehrmacht, then by the Yugoslav People’s Army. The central dome was completed in 1989, but after the NATO bombing in 1999, more work had to be completed. Reconstruction undertaken by the Russian Academy of Arts is ongoing.
DO
Old Belgrade. Photograph by Mr Milos Vucicevic/Shutterstock
Bike through former Yugoslavia
After you’ve explored the old town, ask the guides of I Bike Belgrade to take you on a cycling tour through Novi Beograd (New Belgrade). In a few hours you’ll learn more about the rise and fall of Yugoslavia and the impact of its leader, Marshal Josip Tito, than you ever did at school. The most impressive stop is the first one, after you cross the bridge. Hidden in between the trees you’ll see the old fairground, which was used as a concentration camp during WWII.
EAT
Photograph courtesy of Ambar
Mandala
Along the Sava River, you’ll find a whole host of restaurants in renovated warehouses. Places such as Ambar (Balkan cuisine) or Toro (a Latin gastro bar) are popular spots to have a pre-party meal. The terraces and promenade are also good for people watching. The ground floor of Mandala is deserted, but if you walk all the way up the stairs, past a furniture shop, you’re suddenly on the best rooftop in Belgrade. It serves vegetarian versions of your favourite comfort foods, such as burgers, kofta and crab cakes.
DRINK
Photograph courtesy of Drugstore
Berlin has Berghain, but Belgrade has Drugstore, a dark, maze-like club in a former slaughterhouse. The pyramid-shaped main hall is massive, with dazzling light projections all around and an impressive sound system. Drugstore showcases a wide range of music, from indie bands to raging techno. The party in Belgrade doesn’t kick off until 2.00am, but once it does, brace yourself.
What to pack
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