The latest addition to Vacheron Constantin’s mid-century-inspired Fiftysix collection, and potentially the first time you’re considering a brown-dialled watch.

Vacheron Constantin launched the Fiftysix collection two years ago, as a younger, more casual face for the brand – as well as a cleaner, more approachable alternative to the Quai de L’Ile. It was at first talked of in terms of being a straight replacement for the Quai de L’Ile, a model to reinvigorate interest in Vacheron Constantin at the lower end of the watchmaker’s price spectrum, but in the time since, the Quai has retained its place in the collection. And while it’s true that the stainless steel automatic Fiftysix is the most affordable path to Vacheron Constantin ownership, it is an injustice to think of the range simply as a junior partner to the Traditionelle, Patrimony and Overseas. The decision to introduce triple calendar and day-date models, not to mention the Fiftysix Tourbillon, show that this is more about the brand broadening out its aesthetic at every level.

Which brings us neatly on to this watch in particular. As you would expect, a couple of years after launching an entirely new design, Vacheron Constantin is starting to stretch its legs a little and see what it can really achieve. April’s addition of two brown-dialled references – this piece and a triple calendar moon-phase watch in the same combination of pink gold and brown dial brings an opulence to the mainstream Fiftysix pieces that wasn’t necessarily there before.

Yes, I know what you’re thinking. It’s that word, isn’t it? “Brown”. Onomatopoeia alone dictates that “brown” as a syllable has to work hard to evoke notions of desirability and luxury. Try thinking of it as its Swiss creators intended instead: “marron” – or if you prefer, “chestnut”. Other brands have faced the same issue and opted for “chocolate” or “tobacco” – see, it sounds better already. In fact, Vacheron Constantin swerves the linguistic pitfalls altogether by letting the watch speak for itself. And on this front, we have no such trouble: this shade not only brings up strong 1970s vibes but, within watchmaking in particular, is a nod to the incredibly sought-after patina found on watches from that era. It’s sartorial and sophisticated; it’s something you don’t see every day. Matching the dial with pink gold is essential, and I’d also like to call out the pairing of Vacheron Constantin’s new calfskin straps – a bit more flexible, in every sense of the word, than the traditional crocodile.

It still isn’t so long ago that your dial choices on a new watch amounted to black or white (if you were even offered a choice). The absolute festival of colours now available across the industry, then, is reason to be cheerful. Not so many years ago, I would have struggled with this chestnut, so to speak, but now I think this sits alongside the stainless steel and blue dial Fiftysix as the most successful look in the family.

Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Automatic

Materials: Pink gold and calf leather

Diameter: 40mm

Height: 9.6mm

Water-resistance: 30m

Power reserve: 48 hours

Price: £18,100